The first time I encountered By Kilian’s
luxury perfumes, I was apparently so taken with my sample vials that a
black-and-white photograph is still hanging on my wall today.
Flash forward a few years, and I’m finding out what it’s like to wrap these scents around my wrists.
“Making perfume into something visible has been my obsession these
past few years,” says Kilian Hennessy, founder of the niche fragrance
brand (and grandson of the Hennessy who founded LVMH).
His capsule collection, which launched yesterday, is split into two
parts: The Jewels of L’oeuvre Noire for women and The Leathers of
L’oeuvre Noire for men. A few of the designs contain hidden ceramic
discs—porous, so that the wearer can reapply perfume as needed. The
leathers and silk cords use miniscule capsules that gradually break,
releasing a veil of their invisible contents. Regardless of material,
everything is designed to carry its fragrance for up to a year.
“It considerably changes your relationship to scent,” says Hennessy
of the experience, “You don’t have the aggression of spraying alcohol on
your skin. It’s a much softer, more delicate and beautiful way to wear
your favorite fragrance.”
The micro-encapsulation technology may be modern, but the rest of the collection is a deliberate nod to the past. He cites gantiers parfumeurs as
part of his initial inspiration, the French perfume experts who,
centuries ago, infused men’s gloves with fragrance. Perhaps it was this
nostalgia that inspired him to choose his materials and designs based on
his first perfume collection: L’oeuvre Noire.
Visually, the line pays homage to Homer’s Iliad. The release
mentions Achilles and Hector, while Hennessy points out the shield motif
on one of his pendants, which he describes as a combination of Greek
and Etruscan influences. I think the geometric designs read particularly
well in gold plating (18-carat on the necklaces and 24-carat on the
bracelets), but you can also opt to purchase them in silver-hued
rhodium—because “no one has the time anymore to polish silver!”
The fun part is picking a scent to go with your bauble of choice. By
Kilian offers five gorgeous men’s fragrances for their bracelets, which
lean heavier on wood accords than those featured in the women’s
collection. The tassel necklace comes in six of the brand’s most
feminine compositions. And as far as everything else goes, customers can
have their ceramic pendants scented to order with any of the company’s
29 fragrances.
Like the majority of By Kilian’s perfumes, each piece ends up being
equally cool on both men and women. Case in point: my pick from the
launch is the $275 wraparound leather bracelet, while Hennessy favors
the $465 Onyx Tassel Necklace.
“It shows perfectly how intricate perfume and jewelry can become,” he
remarks, “I’m hoping to convey what Kilian stands for: perfume as art.”
Somehow, I doubt that anyone could fail to receive that message.
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