Flash forward a few years, and I’m finding out what it’s like to wrap these scents around my wrists.
“Making perfume into something visible has been my obsession these past few years,” says Kilian Hennessy, founder of the niche fragrance brand (and grandson of the Hennessy who founded LVMH). His capsule collection, which launched yesterday, is split into two parts: The Jewels of L’oeuvre Noire for women and The Leathers of L’oeuvre Noire for men. A few of the designs contain hidden ceramic discs—porous, so that the wearer can reapply perfume as needed. The leathers and silk cords use miniscule capsules that gradually break, releasing a veil of their invisible contents. Regardless of material, everything is designed to carry its fragrance for up to a year.
Kilian Hennessy (Image courtesy By Kilian Inc.)
The micro-encapsulation technology may be modern, but the rest of the collection is a deliberate nod to the past. He cites gantiers parfumeurs as part of his initial inspiration, the French perfume experts who, centuries ago, infused men’s gloves with fragrance. Perhaps it was this nostalgia that inspired him to choose his materials and designs based on his first perfume collection: L’oeuvre Noire.
Visually, the line pays homage to Homer’s Iliad. The release mentions Achilles and Hector, while Hennessy points out the shield motif on one of his pendants, which he describes as a combination of Greek and Etruscan influences. I think the geometric designs read particularly well in gold plating (18-carat on the necklaces and 24-carat on the bracelets), but you can also opt to purchase them in silver-hued rhodium—because “no one has the time anymore to polish silver!”
The Jewels of L’oeuvre Noire in gold (Image courtesy By Kilian Inc.)
The Leathers of L’oeuvre Noire in black (Image courtesy By Kilian Inc.)
Like the majority of By Kilian’s perfumes, each piece ends up being equally cool on both men and women. Case in point: my pick from the launch is the $275 wraparound leather bracelet, while Hennessy favors the $465 Onyx Tassel Necklace.
“It shows perfectly how intricate perfume and jewelry can become,” he remarks, “I’m hoping to convey what Kilian stands for: perfume as art.”
Somehow, I doubt that anyone could fail to receive that message.
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